Seeds
For Thought
January 2004
by: R.. Jeanne Rehwaldt
A plant sale meeting was held at the Extension
Office last week and a number of interns and a few veterans were
in attendance. Dena Wagner has agreed to co-chair the plant sale
as an intern, but we are still in search of a veteran to work with
her. If you are interested in working with this energetic group
of people, please call Jeanne.
Included in this newsletter are the names of people signed up
to work on various projects. I have included the veterans that
have returned their reapplication forms, but I am missing many.
Karen Paxson will be calling you to find out if you plan to continue
as a Mason County Master Gardener. Please do! We have many exciting
projects this year as well as the enthusiasm of the new class graduates.
They need the guidance of the veterans to lead them though all
the community education projects we have planned for the year.
Seeds need to be planted now for the plant sale. Greenhouse space
is available at Hood Canal School and at the fairgrounds. Soil
is going to be ordered and delivered to the greenhouses for planting
work parties. We need someone with a pickup that could pick up
the soil from Creation Organics at Kamilche and deliver the bags
to the greenhouses. Please contact Pamela Oquist at gardenbee22@aol.com.
The demonstration garden at the fairgrounds now has two people
heading up the project. Pamela Oquist and Maureen Beckstead are
co-chairs. They will be making a proposal of what should be done
to demonstrate gardening practices to the public. Expect calls
from them to set up future work parties.
If you haven’t returned your volunteer time sheet for the last
quarter of 2003, please get that in the mail as soon as possible.
I need to get the final numbers to WSU immediately.
Training for new Master Gardeners is currently being conducted
in nearby counties. This newsletter has the dates and classes that
are being offered. If you would like to attend a class, please
notify the county and ask if there is room. They welcome MGs from
other counties to their trainings.
As January comes to an end, things are really picking up for the
Master Gardeners of Mason County. Read this newsletter and contact
the chairs of the projects you would like to be involved in. The
most urgent thing for February is to get our seeds into pots and
under lights to grow lush plants for our plant sale in May.
Stay warm and dream of spring gardening!
Gardening for Everyone
February 28, 2004
- 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
Centralia College - Ehret Hall
(Directions: From I-5 take
Exit 82 and go east on Harrison, following signs for City Center.
Turn right onto Washington Ave. and go one block. Ehret Hall is
at the corner of Washington and Locust Street.)
9:00 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.
Pruning Fruit Trees Room
113
Increase your fruit harvest with proper pruning.
Learn basic techniques of pruning fruit trees to improve health
and productivity. You will also have an opportunity to ask questions
about your specific trees. Presented by Master Gardener Bob Rucker.
Hobby Greenhouses Room
106
Master Gardener and owner of Blueberry Hill Nursery, Thelma Hauge,
will present a program on hobby greenhouses. What should you
know before you buy a hobby greenhouse and what should you know
after you set up your greenhouse. Thelma operates and maintains
several greenhouses for her nursery and has many years of practical
experience to share.
10:45 a.m. to 11:45 a.m.
Summer Annuals for the Garden Room
113
Why bother with planting
annuals in the flower garden each year when you only have to plant
perennials once? Master Gardener, Barbara Eastman, will give you
lots of reasons why annuals are easy to grow and will add flower
power to last throughout the summer instead of a few weeks.
Year-Round Vegetables Room
106
With proper planning
and seed selection, gardeners in the Pacific Northwest, can grow
fresh vegetables year round. Master Gardener Mike Stedham will
provide information to help you plan now for fresh vegetables next
winter.
12:00 p.m. to 1:00 p.m.
Bentwood & Rustic Garden Structures Room
113
Jim Longmire of Primitive
Country will discuss choosing the best species of wood and techniques
used in building bentwood twig garden structures. He will demonstrate
how to make a rustic planter.
Nutrition Boosters for Home Grown Produce Room
106
One of the reasons for growing vegetables in the
home garden is the higher nutritional quality. Master Gardener,
Sharron Owen, will provide vegetable gardening tips and techniques
to ensure the highest nutritional quality from your home-grown
vegetables. You can grow your own lycopene, lutein, carotene, etc.
Congratulations Mason County Master Gardeners
Congratulations to the Master Gardener Foundation of King County
regarding their recent write-up in the "WSU Foundation Honor
Roll of Donors 2002-2003" brochure. There is a very nice article
on page 19 with some great quotes from Mary Robson and Elaine Anderson.
Well done for being the first Master Gardener group in the history
of WSU and of the MG Program to become a recognized major donor
( $100,000 or more) to Washington State University. I'm pleased
to report that the Master Gardener Foundation of Mason County was
also listed among the corporations, foundations and associations
that support the teaching, research and public outreach of WSU. Many
thanks to the treasured volunteers who made these gifts possible
and to those who support this great program in nearly every county
of our state!
Rod Tinnemore
State Coordinator, WSU Master Gardener Program
Washington State University
Great Job Master Gardeners!!!
Kris
Bailey
On behalf of the Extension office staff I would like to thank: Marilyn
Durand, Kathie Adams, Julie Kelleher, Julie Kessler, Glenda Ledford,
Marianne Norton, Kim Penski, and Dave Shephard, for all of their
hard work on the Extension Office’s Native Garden at the January
17th work party. They did a wonderful job beautifying
the garden, weeding, pruning, and spreading bark. Gardens never
look that good in the winter, and we’ve already received many compliments
on it. Great job!
TITLE: THESE INSECTS THRIVE IN COLD WEATHER!
Question: Last week the temperature at
our house near Oakville dropped into the low teens. Imagine
our surprise to find a branch covered with live caterpillars on
our fir tree as the snow began to melt. What are these? Should
we spray them with something?
Answer: Based on your description, more than likely
the caterpillars on your fir tree are the larvae of the Silver
Spotted Tiger Moth. I usually refer to these small, furry,
rusty brown or blackish caterpillars as the "polar bears" of
the insect world since cold temperatures do not affect them. Although
they usually hibernate during the winter months in the dense webs
they spin, it is not unusual to find them feeding on warmer January
days. Feeding is restricted to the needles at the ends
of the lateral branches. Whole branches are often stripped
of their leaves, making individual trees appear quite unsightly
at times. Cases of total defoliation are rare. Damage
is most often limited to one or a few limbs of a tree. Since
the buds are not harmed, the new growth will cover the damaged
area by early summer.
In general, this caterpillar is not considered to be a serious
pest. They are generally reduced by the same parasitic Trachnid
flies that attack tent caterpillars and these parasites keep populations
under control. Another option is to simply prune out the
infested branch and dispose of the caterpillars.
Question: Every year our Blue Spruce tree looks just
awful in the spring. A lot of the needles turn yellow, while
others turn completely brown and eventually fall off. I
am to the point of thinking we should have the tree removed. Do
you have any suggestions?
Answer: Based on the symptoms you are describing,
there is no question that the damage to the needles is due to feeding
by the Spruce Aphid. What these little monsters lack in size,
they make up for in large numbers. What makes them unusual
is that they are feeding now, during the coldest time of the year. The
Spruce Aphid is often referred to as the "Winter Aphid" because
its number peak during the winter months and it literally vanishes
during the summer months. Populations start to build as early
as October and then peak in February and early March. There
are several generations annually. An interesting fact about
the Spruce Aphid is that all of them here are females. They
reproduce by a phenomenon called parthenogenesis, which basically
results in a clone of the female.
Right now, while you are within the warm, cozy environment of
your home, the Spruce Aphids may well be sucking the life right
out of your spruce tree. Soon after feeding the needles become
a discolored yellow or brown. Since they are light intolerant, these
aphids are found on the lower end branches in toward the trunk
and are usually concentrated low on the tree. High infestations
however, can occur everywhere in the tree. Affected
needles die back and eventually drop off the twig.
Unfortunately, the damage really doesn't become noticeable
until about June and by then the aphids are long gone. The best
method for attacking this pest is to begin examining your spruce
tree now to see if aphids are present. Get a sheet of clean, white
paper and a hand lens. Brush two branches together over the
paper and look carefully using the hand lens. If aphids are present,
they will have shaken onto the paper.
For the home gardener, with just a tree or two, the simplest control
option, is to simply hose the aphids off the branches with a high-pressured
stream of water. This will knock them off the branch onto
the ground where they will not re-infest the tree. You should
continue to check the tree weekly to see if aphids are present. Another
option recommended by WSU entomologists, is to spray the tree with
an insecticidal soap when aphids are present. Repeat applications
may be necessary since this material has no residual activity.
THINGS
TO DO IN THE GARDEN
FEBRUARY
· Early
February often brings deep cold. Don't uncover roses, prune or
plant when temperatures drop below freezing.
· On
mild days, plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
· Mid-month,
pull mulch partly away from emerging bulbs and perennials; hunt
hidden slugs.
· Bring
pots of hardy bulbs into warmth and light for early bloom.
Veggies year-round:
· Start
broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower indoors under a fluorescent shop
light.
· At
month's end, move starts into a cold frame or sheltered outdoor
location to toughen.
Lawn care:
· Starlings
pecking at turf help remove soil grubs such as crane fly.
· Check
lawn for standing puddles. Correct drainage, or replace lawn
with better adapted ground covers.
Choosing
Vegetable Seeds
by Holly S. Kennell,
Cooperative Extension Agent
There is nothing to compare to the sweetness and flavor of steamed
peas from your own garden, unless it’s a sun-warmed tomato straight
from the vine. I consider home-grown produce one of life’s simple
pleasures. If this is the year you are going to start a vegetable
garden, here are some things to remember as you choose your vegetable
seeds.
Some vegetables are easy; some are usually successful, if you
know a thing or two; and some are a challenge, even if you know
all the tricks. Among the easiest are beets, bush beans, collards,
leaf lettuce, mustard greens, radishes, peas, summer squash and
Swiss chard. The more difficult ones include cauliflower, celery,
eggplant, limas, melons, and peppers.
In the Puget Sound area we have a long, frost-free growing season,
often around 225 days. Compared to the majority of the country,
however, our summers are very cool. Hot days are rare; cool, overcast
days are frequent; and evenings usually cool off, even on warm
days.
Some vegetables need a certain amount of accumulated heat to mature.
This is reflected in the "days to maturity" numbers in
the seed catalogs. National seed catalogs assume our days are warmer
than they are, so these numbers aren't accurate for us. To get
a realistic number, you usually must add 20-30% more days for heat-loving
crops like tomatoes, peppers, sweet corn, squash, etc.
The silver lining to this climate story is that we can grow cool-weather
crops through much of the year. In most parts of the country, spinach,
lettuce, mustard greens, choys, etc. can be grown only during a
very short period between winter frosts and summer heat. We can
even winter over many hardy crops like kale, chard, and certain
varieties of broccoli, cabbage, onions, etc.
Choose varieties marked "early" or "fast-maturing”. Another
strategy is to order from local seed companies or ones that specialize
in seed adapted to cold or short seasons. If you buy from seed
racks or purchase transplants, you need to know your varieties.
People assume that, if a particular cultivar is offered locally,
it must be locally adapted. Unfortunately, that isn't always true.
It is another instance of "let the buyer beware."
Here are a few specific hints that may be useful:
· Choose
pea varieties with resistance to the widespread disease, enation
mosaic virus.
· Most
soils in our region heat up slowly in the spring. Seeds that
need warmth to germinate may just rot -- especially beans and
the "super sweet" corn varieties. Raised beds will
help, as will clear plastic over the soil several weeks prior
to planting.
· Some
gardeners pre-sprout their seed or grow transplants to avoid
germination problems. Make sure your transplants are timed right.
Our last spring frost is between late March (Seattle and favored
locations near the Sound) and late April (inland and higher elevations).
Seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, basil, squash and other heat
lovers shouldn't go out until mid to late May, unless protected
by cold frames or row covers.
Project
Volunteers as of January 29, 2004
MG 4-H Auction
Jolean Graham
Glenda Ledford
Valerie VanCleve
Community Clinics
Kathleen Esterly - Pat
Andrews - Maureen Beckstead - Carol Brooks -Sherry Clemmens -Clareda
Deskins - Allen Donaldson - Betty Grindle - Charles Grisim - Jeri
Haymore - Edd Jentzsch -Tom Kelleher - Julie Kessler - Glenda
Ledford - Jim Milward - Marianne Norton - Leslie Simpson - Betty
Swift - Kim Wheeler - Beth Williams - Valerie VanCleve - Dena
Wagner - Kimberly Wheeler - Joni Wilson
Compost Bin Construction
Tom Kelleher
Education Volunteers
Pat Andrews - Maureen Beckstead -
Clareda Deskins - Allen Donaldson - Jolean Graham - Melodie Keely -
Tom Kelleher - Julie Kessler - DeeAnn Kline - Pat Lewallen - Jim
Milward - Marianne Norton - Robert Steinbrugge - Valerie VanCleve -
Dena Wagner - Joni Wilson
Event Planning/Photography
Beth Williams
Fairgrounds Demo Garden
Co-chairs: Pamela Oquist
- Maureen Beckstead
Peg Ryan - Pat Andrews - Carol Brooks -
Sherry Clemmens - Arlene Dean - Betty Grindle - Charles Grisim -
Jeri Haymore - Melody Keely - Tom Kelleher - Julie Kessler - DeeAnn
Kline - Glenda Ledford - Jim Milward - Eleanor Morris - Michael
Noonan - Marianne Norton - Dave Shephard - Leslie Simpson - Robert
Steinbrugge - Betty Swift - Dena Wagner - Kim Wheeler - Joni Wilson
Home and Garden Show
Chairperson: Pamela Oquist
Michelle Headding - Dick Parrett - Kathleen Esterly - Joe Kropf -
Marilyn Durand - Pat Lewallen - Eleanor Morris - Dave Shephard
- Beth Williams - Joni Wilson
Hope Island Pruning
Chairperson: Lynn Lane
Jerry Headding - Marilyn Durand - Esther
Novak - Pat Andrews - Arlene Dean - Allen Donaldson - Charles Grisim
- Jeri Haymore - Edd Jentzsch - Melodie Keely - Tom Kelleher -
Julie Kessler - Jim Milward - Eleanor Morris - Michael Noonan
- Dave Shephard - Leslie Simpson - Robert Steinbrugge - Betty Swift
- Valerie VanCleve - Kim Wheeler - Beth Williams - Joni Wilson
- Ben Trowbridge
Native Plant Garden at Ext. Office
Chairperson: Kris Bailey,
427-9670 X396
Marilyn Durand - Kathie Adams - Pat
Andrews - Carol Brooks - Sherry Clemmens - Arlene Dean - Clareda
Deskins - Allen Donaldson - Betty Grindle - Charles Grisim - Melodie
Keely - Julie Kessler - Glenda Ledford - Pat Lewallen - Jim Milward -
Eleanor Morris - Michael Noonan - Marianne Norton - Kim Penski
- Dave Shephard - Leslie Simpson - Betty Swift - Valerie VanCleve
- Kim Wheeler - Beth Williams - Joni Wilson
Office Clinic
Chairperson: Patricia
Smith
Ben Trowbridge - Dick Parrett - Joe
Kropf - Lynn Lane - Kathie Adams - Pat Andrews - Maureen Beckstead
- Carol Brooks - Marilyn Chase - Sherry Clemmens - Clareda Deskins
- Allen Donaldson - Charles Grisim - Jeri Haymore - Melodie Keely
- Tom Kelleher - DeeAnn Kline - Glenda Ledford - Jim Milward -
Eleanor Morris - Marianne Norton - Kim Penski - Leslie Simpson
- Robert Steinbrugge -Betty Swift - Kim Wheeler - Beth Williams
Office Support
Pat Andrews - Marilyn Chase
Potato Trials
Chairman: Steve Edmondson
Melodie Keely - Jolean Graham - Michael Noonan - Robert Steinbrugge
- Betty Swift
Publicity
Chairperson: Diana Holmlund
E-mail is best: holmlund@tscnet.com
Maureen Beckstead - Marilyn Chase -
Edd Jentzsch - Melodie Keely - Marianne Norton - Dena Wagner - Kim
Wheeler
Theler Center
Chairperson: Arp Masley
Co-chair when Arp is away: Ben
Trowbridge
Marilyn Durand - Kathie Adams - Pat
Andrews - Carol Brooks - Marilyn Chase - Sherry Clemmens - Allen
Donaldson - Jolean Graham - Betty Grindle - Edd Jentzsch - Melody
Keely - Julie Kessler - DeeAnn Kline - Glenda Ledford - Pat
Lewallen - Jim Milward - Eleanor Morris - Marianne Norton - Kim
Wheeler - Beth Williams - Joni Wilson
Youth Gardening
Contact: Jeanne Rehwaldt 427-9670 X396
Nutrition: Allen Donaldson (MMK) - Charles Grisim (Mt. View)
- Jeri Riffe - Dena Wagner
Jr. MG
Ben Trowbridge - Debby Bell - Jolean
Graham - Pat Lewallen - Jeri Riffe - Dena Wagner
Vegie Trials
Allen Donaldson
Hood Canal Greenhouse
Allen Donaldson - Jolean Graham -
Jim Milward - Marianne Norton - Robert Steinbrugge - KimberlyWheeler
Forestry Program
Betty Grindle - Melody Keely - DeeAnn
Kline - Valerie Van Cleve
Pioneer Greenhouse
Dick Parrett - Edd Jentzsch - Tom
Kelleher - Jim Milward - Michael Noonan - Marianne Norton
Garden Gate Radio Show
Chairperson: Steve Edmondson
Jeri Haymore - Melodie Keely - Dena Wagner - Kathie Adams
Phone Tree
Dena Wagner - Leslie Simpson - Julie
Kessler - Clareda Deskins - Eleanor Morris - Johanna Cates
Garden Tour
Chairs: Jerry and Michelle Headding -
427-8991
Dick Parrett - Dolores Parrett - Joe
Kropf - Kathie Adams - Pat Andrews - Maureen Beckstead - Sherry
Clemmens - Allen Donaldson - Betty Grindle - Edd Jentzsch - Tom
Kelleher - Julie Kessler -Glenda Ledford - Jim Milward - Marianne
Norton - Kim Penski - Leslie Simpson - Betty Swift - Valerie VanCleve
-Kimberly Wheeler - Debby Bell
Plant Sale
Veteran co-chair needed
Intern co-chair: Dena Wagner
Craft/Vendor Chair: Dick Parrett
Plant Descriptions:Clareda Deskins
Transplant instructions:Kim Wheeler
Dolores Parrett - Kathleen Esterly
- Larry Knudsen - Marilyn Durand - Maureen Beckstead - Carol Brooks -
Sherry Clemmons - Arlene Dean - Clareda Deskins - Allen Donaldson
- Jolean Graham - Betty Grindle - Jeri Haymore - Edd Jentzsch
- Melodie Keely - Tom Kelleher - Julie Kessler - DeeAnn Kline -
Glenda Ledford - Pat Lewallen - Jim Milward - Eleanor Morris -
Michael Noonan - Kim Penski - Dave Shephard - Leslie Simpson -
Robert Steinbrugge - Betty Swift - Valerie VanCleve - Dena Wagner
- Kim Wheeler - Beth Williams - Joni Wilson - Ben Trowbridge -
Debby Bell
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The Care of Cut Roses
Follow these simple suggestions for extra
enjoyment and long life for your roses.
1. Remove any leaves that might decay under
water.
2. While holding the stem end under water,
cut about 1/2 inch off the stem with a sharp knife. Heavier
stems, crush with a hammer.
3. When removing bark leaves or thorns,
do not cut through the bark or scrape the bark.
4. Place roses in a clean deep vase of warm
water. If possible, leave them in a cool room or refrigerator
to "condition" for 2 to 4 hours before arranging.
5. Water, to which a good "floral preservative" has
been added, is the best medium in which to arrange roses.
For
lasting satisfaction when you receive a vase of roses.
1. Add water immediately and refill the
vase daily... Roses are heavy drinkers!!
2. If a "porous foam" material
is used to hold the roses in place, keep the foam covered
with water. Ends of stems should be below water.
Roses
say so much beautifully.
If
a rose should wilt prematurely:
Premature
wilting is not a sign that the rose is old. It sometimes
occurs if the bud has been cut before sufficiently mature,
or if a cut has been made through the bark, or the bark
has been scraped. Also, wilting occurs when leaves decay
under water. Cut off stem above damaged place, or take
away leaves and cut off 1/2 inch of stem. Then allow the
entire rose to float in a tub (bathtub) of deep warm water
for a couple of hours. When it revives, place it back in
the vase arrangement. Another option is to remove the rose
head and let it float in a water filled bowl.
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